Torres del Paine National Parc

The plans changed. Originally I planned to travel two more days with the two Spanish but after Vera, one of the two Suisse girls had the idea to rent a car. That way we could sleep and safe the money for accommodation and at the same time be very flexible. This concept convinced me because in the end this alternative would be cheaper but also the Torres is so big that a day trip just would not make any sense. And so, after disembarking the ferry we went from one car rental place to the next ending up at the Hertz office giving us a good price for a pick-up truck. We went shopping for food and other things we might need for the following three days. Afterwards I had to say good-bye to my crew from the ferry which turned out not to be as easy as I thought. It was the second good-bye in five days and I realized how much fun we had together. At first I was a little bit skeptical if I made the right decision to change my plans but it turned out that it was the best I could have possibly done. I had the best three days ever...

We started our journey to the park at about 21h-it started getting dark and ahead of us were another two hours-turned out to be three. The road was in good condition but later changed into a gravel road. At some point we got lost and ask for the right way. The guy was very nice but a little scary as well as he followed us when we were still taking the wrong way. We were going about 40ks per hour and saw nice animals...the first time in my life I saw a "Gürteltier", tons of rabits (some of them kamikazee as they would not go out of the way, jumping in front of the car, and some animal we identified as a biver not being sure if it was a biver indeed. As almost everywhere in the world wild camping is forbidden so we had to find a good spot to spend the night without being caught. We found one. It was dark, above the clear sky with thousands of stars, and below a lake with its water making a sound of crashing small waves. I was keen to use my camping-cooker-gas-thingy which was free with the torch I bought. We tried to make a tea but the wind was to strong. The two girls ended up sleeping in the truck and I slept in the back. We woke up-sun was shining with a nice view of the lake. This day we made a couple of small hikings. First we went to the lake "Lago Grey" to find ice blocks swimming on the lake. I have never seen this before and found it to be quite impressive. Then we drove to another two hour hike climbing up to the peak of that small mountain overlooking the another lake and being intimidated by the big mountains opposite of the lake. Before we cood rice with I cannot remember. Our meals however, were very simple and just served the purpose to nourish. Now we had to find another place to stay-with success. We ended up to invent a new kind of accommodation-it is called "Parking". What is parking? Parking is sleeping in the car on a parking lot that belongs to a hotel/refugio and at the same time using the showers/toilets of the camping site. We stayed there to nights, all three sleeping in the car as we had a lot more wind than in the first place and the second night unfortunately also rain. But the second day we hiked 22ks up and downhill Exhausted we came back. Vera, one of the Suisse girls, hiked another 11ks while Andrea, the other, and I were waiting in a refugio. We were making fun of the people coming and announced the "coolest backpacker"-a guy with no hair from Australia. Tired as we were, we even had to drive the car to the showers, only 200m away from the parking lot. On our last day we went further up the park, getting lost again. But in the end we found the cascades and the "Laguna Azul". We had lunched there and then made our way back to Puerto Natales.

After returning the car we found the best hostel there is in Puerto Natales-coincidentally. Whenever you are here, stay at the "Hostal Dickson"! Good service, nice rooms, and a convincing price! Today I had the third good-bye in eight days because the to Suisse girls left-yet we will meet each other again in Buenos Aires in two weeks. Thanks a lot Vera and Andrea for the awesome and easygoing three days with you!!!

From South to South with Navimag

It was 9o'clock a.m. I was sitting at the doctors to get a certificate for the yellow fever vacination when my phone rang. "The ferry from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales will leave one day later..." Ok, but what would I do one more day after I had my farewell from Puerto Varas the day before?! In the afternoon I went around the third biggest lake of South America - the Llanquihue - with my to Spanish Couchsurfers. We had a blast though it was raining a lot-hitch hiking became a very wet experience. On Tuesday-one day later-we went to the harbour of Navimag-the company that runs the ferry. The ferry originially was only for cargo and is now earning money also with tourists. As planned we boarded at 14:30h being suret the ferry would leave at 16:00h as scheduled-but no. It took them about another eight hours to get the cargo loaded and even more to secure the cargo. We left around midnight and started our 4Day/3Night journey among the 14.000 Islands that we would pass until the arrival in Puerto Natales. After 45 minutes the boat stopped and a small boat came racing for us-immediately I though of the delicate situation in Somalia with all the pirates attacking the ships. But of course it was not so-they only repaired the chain of the anker-this is at least what they told me. We went forward and backwards and saw ourselves already back on chains in Puerto Montt. Que suerte that we continued our journey after another hour.

The night was quite and the following day a little boring as the canals were so wide that you could see barely anything. The weather was good and we enjoyed the time on the observation deck. Meanwhile, my two Spanish Couchsrufers and I met an English guy from New Castle, an Aussi that now lives in California, and another Spanish guy from Madrid-together we made the best team which I realized once I was leaving Puerto Natales to the Torres del Paine National Park. On the second night we were prepared for the twelve hours on the open ocean. They sold sea-sickness pills-which I did not take. After dinner we played cards and the sea indeed started to ber rougher. A littler it was even rougher and the ferry was moving up and down. Two English guys and I went up on deck where it got two big chess fields on the floor. Each of us had four squares that we must not leave while jumping on one leg-loads of fun considering the movement. But in the end the staff said that it was not too bad and that it is worse most of the times. The next day was beautiful. Very close to the boat were the islands mounting like hils. In the afternoon we reach Puerto Eden where we stopped to load a couple more passengers. As the sun was shining on one side and rain on the other we had an amazingly strong rainbow that would only cover on littler island above the sea-amazing!!! After we left we ate, played card, took fotos, and enjoyed the time on the observation deck. On Friday at 10:30h we arrived in Puerto Natales looking forward to get back on mainland-but noooo. The wind was too strong for the ferry to get into the harbour. Now we ankered...The good thing about was that we got another lunch ;) After a while we could move on and once the engines stopped we were positive again that we can desembark-but once again-noooo. We were the victims of the Chilean Marinos searching the ferry for drugs and other forbidden substances. Including our luggage and the passports. After another three or four hours we could finally leave the boat.

It sure was a journey with a lot of obsticles but in the end very panoramic and full of nice people travelling through South America and the world. The Dutch couple with whom I was sharing the cabin e.g. was using the Round-The-World-Ticket to do their honeymoon. How nice of a honeymoon is that?

It's been a long long time...

...that I updated what I am about. I tell you, in the last six weeks or so happened a monton de cosas-I went to Argentina, participated in wedding (as a guest-no worries), quit my job-as a matter of fact I am using my last day today to update my blog, and will be travelling from next Monday until christmas. Now you are asking yourself: "What happened-why quit this dude his job?" I tell you:

***censured*** But in the end I have to thank them "Protours" for inviting me to Chile. My Spanish allows me communicate, have discussions about the financial crisis and the matter of fact that Europe is not democratic (?!?!?!?!?!?), and to go to the doctor and explain to him what my simptoms are and to understand what I really got. From almost 0 to that-juhuuu. After I decided to leave Protours about six weeks ago I had the best time here in Puerto Varas which in the end makes it a little rough to leave on Monday. Besides the Spanish I was able to see the few 1000 injustices that exist in this country with only little culture and only exists because the people keep buying stuff they cannot afford, running to the banks asking for credits...Indeed it is a nice place to travel and enjoy the nature that goes from desert to glaciers but for living-NO THANK YOU. Managers earn European salaries whereas poor Rodrigo has to live with no more than 600USD and price similar to Europe. Once I asken a Chilean guy how this system survives-he answered it does survive because the people make more debts to by stuff and because the cannot pay the credit they take another one. Poeple do not live here they survive. So the only action I could possibly take was going back to Germany, which I will do over christmas. Do not get me wrong-I have a great time but for much longer I could not stand it.

Things seem to be different in Argentina. It seems that the poeple hold on to their traditions and culture, not caring that much about materialistic life. Of course it does exist but as soon as you cross the border from Chile to Argentina you see smiling and frank people letting you feel the South American flaire. And so I enjoy my short vacation to San Martin de Los Andes. In the end of Semptember I took a bus to Villa La Angustura and from their to San Martin. After about 15 hours I arrived to experience my first not so good couchsurfing adventure. The guy told me to call him once I arrive and he would pick me up. Nobody anserwed and about 20minutes later I made my own way as I had his address. Later I was informed that walking alone in this district with a backpack that reveals you as a tourist is rather dangerous. That same couple which gave this information to me organized a taxi to take me down town. For the following four nights I had a small nice hotel-cheap cheap with breakfast. I had a blast in this time. I went horse-riding in the mountains for about three hours the first day. Also I went to a panoramic site. On my way back I lost my way and fought myself through the forest to find the original trail. The next I just chilled in a cafe reading, writing diary and a letter, and enjoyed the good time. At night I went for Pizza-ricissimo, even more when they played Seed...Somewhere in the middle of nowhere and then SEED! On my last day, Saturday, I borded a ship, cruising over the lake to a beach and a trail leading to cascades. It is so beautiful up there! On Sunday morning the bus left back for Villa la Angustura. This time we travelled with daylight and I was amazed by the landscape-it reminded me a little of my time in Idaho.

I came back and on my way from the bus terminal I set down my backpack to take in the most beautiful sunset I have seen in a loooong time.Then came la vida cotidiana-back to normal until on the 27.9. my friend married this Chilean guy felix. Like the sunset-It was a very nice fiesta on a property located at the sea shore with a beack-it was just like in the movies. The ceremory was crowded with people taking pictures which I did not appreciate very much. In the end both said yes and after a couple of Pisco Sours the Buffet was opened. The food was good, the vine red, and the rest of the day FUN. Their is a custom here that is laces are baked into the most upper part of the cake. Attached are symbolic pieces...horses for luck, etc...and of course rings indicating the next who is gonna marry. Who would have guessed...I pulled a ring-juhuuu. The second one went to this cute girl which the week after turned out not be as nice as she seemed...The night was long-full of dancing, jokes, and a happy atmosphere. Some staid over night and the next morning those who stayed made their way home.

But still, all those event could not keep me here. Just now I had my "despedida" at work and I told my colleagues that in the end I am European, i.e. I cannot work for 45 hours the week earning 500€ allowing only to survive not being able to go out for a coffee or drink not to mention travelling. And as travelling is the best I am good at I decided: "Yes, that is what I am gonna do!" Somebody-without mentioning the name-supported me in doing what I will be up to. Of course others did as well...Anyway, on Monday, 20.10. I will be leaving with an old ferry that has been remodeled to be a passenger ship to Puerto Natales. Four days on the ship of no comfort rather for young people-back into my element. Any asking themselves how I can afford a cruise or better two? No worries, that is why people work in tourism :) Of course I will keep you up to date...