So there I was-all by myself again. I spent a couple more nights in Puerto Natales staying at a friends house. She used to live with me in Maguya 2-my home in Puerto Varas. Then she moved with her boyfriend to Puerto Natales-him working in Torres del Paine. During the day I was more or less bored. I still did not manage to find a good book as bookstores down there are very rare but at night we caught up on good old times and talked about God and the world. Finally it was time to move on-Punta Arenas, the port of departure for the Mare Australis. Destination: Ushuaia-southern most city in the world. Route: Straight of Magalan, Cape Horn. Definately one of the highlights of my short journey through part of South America. To safe some money I hitch-hiked all the way to Punta Arenas. Luckily, I did not have to wait too long. Three guys from the Netherland picked me up and took me all the way to Punta Arenas. All of them seemed to 
have an impressive career-two of them living in Germany-Hamburg and Freiburg...We chatted a lot and after about two hours of "race car style" driving we arrived at the Seno Otway Penguin Colony. They say there are about 11.000 penguins nesting this year from October till March. Well, our count was just a bit under 11.000: 28 alive, 1 dead. But still-it was my first time I saw penguins in the wild (except for those we saw of the Navimag Ferry). From there it was just another 18Km to Punta Arenas-the wind blowing amazingly strong. I asked the lady from our hostal in Puerto Natales if she knew a good hostal in Punta Arenas trusting her when she said yes-"A good one, if I did not know it personally, I would not recommend it to you." Well, it turned out that the hostal was in the red light district of Punta Arenas where the sailors have a good time until their next departure. I decided that this would not be good for me and moved to another hostal close to the pier-two days more and the adventure begins! The two days turned out once mor
e to be very boring as there was not really much to do in this city, eventhough I liked it more than Puerto Varas. I got addicted to the computer and spider-solitaire. Things had to change and so they did!
have an impressive career-two of them living in Germany-Hamburg and Freiburg...We chatted a lot and after about two hours of "race car style" driving we arrived at the Seno Otway Penguin Colony. They say there are about 11.000 penguins nesting this year from October till March. Well, our count was just a bit under 11.000: 28 alive, 1 dead. But still-it was my first time I saw penguins in the wild (except for those we saw of the Navimag Ferry). From there it was just another 18Km to Punta Arenas-the wind blowing amazingly strong. I asked the lady from our hostal in Puerto Natales if she knew a good hostal in Punta Arenas trusting her when she said yes-"A good one, if I did not know it personally, I would not recommend it to you." Well, it turned out that the hostal was in the red light district of Punta Arenas where the sailors have a good time until their next departure. I decided that this would not be good for me and moved to another hostal close to the pier-two days more and the adventure begins! The two days turned out once mor
e to be very boring as there was not really much to do in this city, eventhough I liked it more than Puerto Varas. I got addicted to the computer and spider-solitaire. Things had to change and so they did!As I always do, I checked-in last at the office of Crucero Australis. I got a cabin A-which is the third best option of the ship. In the end all the cabins are equipped equally, they are just on different decks. Up to this point yet I did not have any idea what this meant in reality-nothing! Peo
ple pay more and get the same. At 18h I arrived at the pier, luckily enough to meet my dear collegua Pame and husband from Protours. We boarded together and were impressed by the high quality and luxury. It is a 4*+ Hotel swimming through the canals of the fjords of Patagonia. At 20h-welcome dinner. We had the same table assigned and shared it with a Spanish couple-very nice-we spent all day together-excursions; breakfast, lunch, dinner; and the evenings in the bar.
ple pay more and get the same. At 18h I arrived at the pier, luckily enough to meet my dear collegua Pame and husband from Protours. We boarded together and were impressed by the high quality and luxury. It is a 4*+ Hotel swimming through the canals of the fjords of Patagonia. At 20h-welcome dinner. We had the same table assigned and shared it with a Spanish couple-very nice-we spent all day together-excursions; breakfast, lunch, dinner; and the evenings in the bar. The first day I got up at 5:30h to
watch the sun rising. It sure was beautiful but expected a little more color. I went up just in flip-flops and it was a.. freezing cold-the punishment for lazyness. After breakfast I was looking forward to our first excursion: Bahia Ainsworth. Mister Ainsworth was a British Master of the boat 
Adventure, exploring this area. We got on deck with our life jackets and were prepared to desembark with the Zodiac boats-small boats for 13 men. They explained a hundred times what to do and not-they must be really afraid that somebody falls into the 5º water-annoying. The ride on these boats was good fun. We had a two hour walk through the Evergreen Patagonian Forrests and took a closer look to flora and fauna. We also listened to the quietness-nothing. When everybody was quiet you heard nothing-just water and birds. Amazing, a place on earth with no noise, no houses nothing-just you yourself and mother nature! Before we hopped back on the boat we enjoyed hot choclate, coke, or a whiskey. The good thing on board was - everything gratis. Just good enough for a backpacker. After lunch of the same day we once again changed from big to small and surrounded a small island watching penguins, cormorans, and other birds. And because I liked those Zodiacs sooo much they let me go two turnes-one in German and one in Spanish with my table number 6.
watch the sun rising. It sure was beautiful but expected a little more color. I went up just in flip-flops and it was a.. freezing cold-the punishment for lazyness. After breakfast I was looking forward to our first excursion: Bahia Ainsworth. Mister Ainsworth was a British Master of the boat 
Adventure, exploring this area. We got on deck with our life jackets and were prepared to desembark with the Zodiac boats-small boats for 13 men. They explained a hundred times what to do and not-they must be really afraid that somebody falls into the 5º water-annoying. The ride on these boats was good fun. We had a two hour walk through the Evergreen Patagonian Forrests and took a closer look to flora and fauna. We also listened to the quietness-nothing. When everybody was quiet you heard nothing-just water and birds. Amazing, a place on earth with no noise, no houses nothing-just you yourself and mother nature! Before we hopped back on the boat we enjoyed hot choclate, coke, or a whiskey. The good thing on board was - everything gratis. Just good enough for a backpacker. After lunch of the same day we once again changed from big to small and surrounded a small island watching penguins, cormorans, and other birds. And because I liked those Zodiacs sooo much they let me go two turnes-one in German and one in Spanish with my table number 6. On the second full day the morning was quiet. Not much to do-just enjoying the panaroma. I was almost the only one on the observation deck for most of the time. The others were inside enjoying a drink or two and taken a look at the landscape from the warmth. Not enough for me-if you do not feel the breeze and cold you do not feel the whole excitement. After lunch we once again changed from big to small Zodiacs and got close to the Glacier Pia. Amazing-another highlight of this cruise. Lu
cky as we were we could see massive ice floes crashing down into the water. The sound of this event is similar to a fire cracker explosing-strong forces-WOW. We also climped up to a lookout. After I had some health problems I was more than happy to not feel my knees hurting for every step I took. Back down we enjoyed a whiskey with a piece of Glacier Ice in our glases. Back on board the hot shower was number one of the priorety list. And here we went-all the way down to Cape Horn. All of us praying that the weather would let us desembark. It depended on the wind. The usual case is wind from the South-West in which case the only bay to climbed onto the island is protected. Just rarely they have wind from the North which in many cases does not allow to explore the Cape Horn with its monument and light-house.
cky as we were we could see massive ice floes crashing down into the water. The sound of this event is similar to a fire cracker explosing-strong forces-WOW. We also climped up to a lookout. After I had some health problems I was more than happy to not feel my knees hurting for every step I took. Back down we enjoyed a whiskey with a piece of Glacier Ice in our glases. Back on board the hot shower was number one of the priorety list. And here we went-all the way down to Cape Horn. All of us praying that the weather would let us desembark. It depended on the wind. The usual case is wind from the South-West in which case the only bay to climbed onto the island is protected. Just rarely they have wind from the North which in many cases does not allow to explore the Cape Horn with its monument and light-house.7:00h in the morning-up on deck. Cape Horn-so close you could almost touch it. Wind-almost none. Would we be lucky?! I went to the reception and talked to one of the crew members-chances 50:50. I went to the back of the boat-the drivers of the Zodiacs already in there position to be heaved down. Oh, I believed we could do it. But then-wind wind wind wind wind wind wind. 92knots (approx 180km) and how could it be differ
ently? From the North. We waited an hour for the weather to improve but soon came the announcement that the wind would not calm down all morning. Puuuuh, what a disappointment!!! Now I have just fotos from off-shore but indeed was really surprised how much adrenalin was released for just being close. That took most of the disappointment. After a sh.. load of fotos and playing with the wind "you are so strong I will not fall over when I lean against you"-which really worked - we had breakfast not knowing that in about two hours at least half of the 88 passengers would throw up. We got into a bad storm of 100knots giving us waves of (only) three to four meters but yet giving the a good shake for about four hours. As on the Navimag I did not take a sea-sickness pill, self-confident that I could handel the situation. I enjoyed the first three hours of the event more or less giggeling about the people all white in their faces. Isabel, the Spanish lady of table number 6-by the way the best one of the cruise-walked very alegant to the trash bin, getting rid of all possible. Later I just asked her if she was the first one using it. She said yes and gave me a smile. A little later lunch...I was hungry but had to concentrate that the same would not be happening to me. I ate small portions and felt that if this goes on for much longer I would fail my mission to resist with drugs. But then, I just ate my dessert-the wind stopped, the waves-no more, the boat cruising all quite. In less than a minute I was back to normal and had to laugh when the others said to me later that I was very very very white in my face as well :) From here everything was calm and as it should be. Another highlight just about to happen. The "Street of Glaciers" - along the canals we had five glaciers coming over the top of the hills-each being called after the origin of its first climbers. Spanish, "Romanche", German, French, and Dutch. At each glacier tipical music of the respective country was heard of the loud-speakers and food being served. I really did not agree with
the Prinzen "Koenig von Deutschland" is tipical as well as the Bavarian music but oh well, this is just our image. Served were sausages and of course-beer. In the afternoon we did another desembarking to a look out at Bahia Wulaia the home of the Yamana. At about midnight we arrived at Ushuaia-spending the last night on board.
ently? From the North. We waited an hour for the weather to improve but soon came the announcement that the wind would not calm down all morning. Puuuuh, what a disappointment!!! Now I have just fotos from off-shore but indeed was really surprised how much adrenalin was released for just being close. That took most of the disappointment. After a sh.. load of fotos and playing with the wind "you are so strong I will not fall over when I lean against you"-which really worked - we had breakfast not knowing that in about two hours at least half of the 88 passengers would throw up. We got into a bad storm of 100knots giving us waves of (only) three to four meters but yet giving the a good shake for about four hours. As on the Navimag I did not take a sea-sickness pill, self-confident that I could handel the situation. I enjoyed the first three hours of the event more or less giggeling about the people all white in their faces. Isabel, the Spanish lady of table number 6-by the way the best one of the cruise-walked very alegant to the trash bin, getting rid of all possible. Later I just asked her if she was the first one using it. She said yes and gave me a smile. A little later lunch...I was hungry but had to concentrate that the same would not be happening to me. I ate small portions and felt that if this goes on for much longer I would fail my mission to resist with drugs. But then, I just ate my dessert-the wind stopped, the waves-no more, the boat cruising all quite. In less than a minute I was back to normal and had to laugh when the others said to me later that I was very very very white in my face as well :) From here everything was calm and as it should be. Another highlight just about to happen. The "Street of Glaciers" - along the canals we had five glaciers coming over the top of the hills-each being called after the origin of its first climbers. Spanish, "Romanche", German, French, and Dutch. At each glacier tipical music of the respective country was heard of the loud-speakers and food being served. I really did not agree with
the Prinzen "Koenig von Deutschland" is tipical as well as the Bavarian music but oh well, this is just our image. Served were sausages and of course-beer. In the afternoon we did another desembarking to a look out at Bahia Wulaia the home of the Yamana. At about midnight we arrived at Ushuaia-spending the last night on board.The day was slow. Pame, Claudia, and I were looking for an accommodation and I went to the national park Tierra del Fuego, doing a three hours hike. I enjoyed it a lot and once again observe the flora and fauna of this area-impressive, untouched, and just beautiful. From there started a journey of 52 hour journey to Buenos Aires. I used busses, hitch-hike (lucky enough to get onto a truck providing a good view of Tierra del Fuego and the Atlantic, taking breaks in Rio Gallegos and Puerto Madryn-access point for the Peninsula Valdez. I got the advise to take a full day excursion to the peninsula but the prices told me not to. And after all I had seen penguins, see elephants, seals, and other maritime life. The only thing more would have been whales-but to be honest-remembering the boringness of whale-watching in New Zealand told me rather be on time for Andreas Birthday in Buenos Aires and safe the money. So I went to the bus terminal and asked if they have availability for the nightbus-not being to positive as busses are full most of the times depending on the route. The guy said "No!". I kindly asked him to have another look into the computer and nice as he was-he did. And mira voz, one seat available that was apparently occupied in the morning. Now as I believe in destiny I was sure that I made the right decision.
Now I will be four days in Buenos Aires before I head back to Chile. And I am very happy to be reunited with my two Swiss girls - Andrea and Vera - with whome I have explored the Torres del Paine two weeks ago...
2 comments:
LOL!!! Das sieht ja mal geil aus! Na, selbst wenn de runterwehst, biste wenigstens gut eingepackt ;-)
LG Nina
Sin duda fue un viaje maravilloso, nuestra mesa, no pudo ser mejor seleccionada, un aleman loco, dos españoles simpatiquisimos y una pareja de chilenos celebrando su primer año de matrimonio.. Que ironia la vida, el unico aniversario...
Recuerda que prometimos que nos volviamos a juntar en 10 años mas, mismo barco, mismo lugar, mismas personas, ¿ se cumplira? veamos..
Un beso, fue un placer conocerte!!! Recuerda que siempre tendras una amiga en CHILE.
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